BINH PHUOC, VIETNAM - In January 2023, the European Commission approved a company’s sale of powdered cricket for use in bread, sauces and pizzas under its regulations on novel foods. This triggered a backlash from eurosceptics and right-wing politicians, some of whom alleged that it threatened European culinary traditions and people’s health.

The Vietnamese company at the heart of the storm, Cricket One, grappled with hate mail and media reports questioning the safety of eating crickets. But demand for its product continued to grow as manufacturers in Europe and North America raced to incorporate cricket into items like protein bars and meat substitutes.