SINGAPORE – It has been an exciting start to 2024 for LVMH.
In early January, the luxury conglomerate owned by Frenchman Bernard Arnault announced several key leadership changes in its watch division. His son Frederic Arnault left his position as chief executive of Tag Heuer to take over as head honcho of LVMH Watches.
Tag’s new chief executive is Mr Julien Tornare, who spent the last seven years steering the ship at Zenith. Stepping in to fill Mr Tornare’s shoes is Mr Benoit de Clerck, a veteran with two decades of experience in the watch industry, including stints at IWC and Panerai.
A couple of weeks later, the fifth edition of LVMH Watch Week took place in Miami, Florida. Bvlgari, Tag Heuer, Zenith and Hublot unveiled new timepieces, as did Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, two maisons relaunched within Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking atelier La Fabrique du Temps.
Here are some of the headturners.
Tag Heuer Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde
Two years ago, Tag Heuer launched the Carrera Plasma, which showcased the brand’s chemical vapour deposition technology and boasted, among other features, a black ceramic polished bezel and a crazy “polycrystalline diamond dial” blasted with fine ground diamond powder.
This year, the limelight belongs to the Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde, which flaunts a polycrystalline dial adorned with thousands of laboratory-grown diamonds, including exquisite baguette cuts and a striking 1.4-carat yellow diamond logo. Also cut from a single 1.3-carat yellow lab-grown diamond is the winding crown at 3 o’clock.
The sparkling 36mm timepiece, which is fitted with a white alligator strap, is powered by the precision-driven TAG Calibre 7 movement. Visible through a sapphire caseback, the movement boasts 56 hours of power reserve and runs at a frequency of 28,800bph.
Price: Upon request
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Yellow Gold
A startling new iteration of the Octo Finissimo Automatic, this stylish 40mm by 45mm timepiece is fashioned from yellow gold and boasts a striking blue lacquered dial with sunburst finish, gilded hands and hour indices.
Its heart is the ultra-thin in-house BVL 138 movement. Although just 2.23mm thick, it is a powerhouse of a calibre with a platinum micro-rotor and a 60-hour power reserve. The beauty of the intricate movement – with Geneva stripes, circular patterns and shiny edges – can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
Price: $63,900
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
Modern but full of vintage charm, the 38mm Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar recalls the beloved A386 El Primero from 1969.
The modern iteration, however, has a “deep dish” caseback to accommodate its triple calendar and moonphase complications. The handsome opaline silver and black “panda” dial integrates day, month and a beautiful moonphase display at 6 o’clock.
Driven by the in-house El Primero 3610 movement, the watch – which is fitted with a three-link stainless-steel bracelet – offers a high-frequency chronograph for split-second precision and boasts a 60-hour power reserve.
Price: $20,200
Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium
Hublot serves up quite a surprise with the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium.
An engineering marvel with 592 components, including two linear weights, an inclined tourbillon and a novel circular power reserve indicator, it has no traditional dial. Instead, there are four dynamic rollers to show hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve in a visually captivating display.
The avant-garde timepiece – measuring 54mm by 41mm by 21mm – also boasts a new winding system, anchored by two bi-directional, oscillating white gold weights, set within a microblasted titanium case. It is limited to 50 pieces.
Price: $385,700
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
LVMH’s revival of the Daniel Roth brand has got watch lovers in a tizzy, and for good reason. But first, a little history lesson.
Founded in 1988 by watchmaker Daniel Roth, who played a major role in the rejuvenation of Breguet in the 1980s, the brand was bought and sold several times until Bvlgari acquired it in 2000.
Bvlgari, in turn, came into the LVMH fold in 2011 and now Daniel Roth watches are crafted by La Fabrique du Temps.
The limited-edition Tourbillon Souscription, which boasts an 80-hour power reserve, marks a magnificent comeback for the brand. Crafted from 18K yellow gold, the 35.5mm timepiece has an unconventional albeit stunning Clous de Paris guilloche dial and an exquisite hand-finished movement, which recalls the grace of Breguet watches. There are only 20 pieces available.
Price: $230,000
Gerald Genta Mickey Mouse Watch
This watch was originally made for last year’s Only Watch auction, which was postponed for a year after concerns arose over the handling of funds.
With an octagonal case crafted from white gold, the unique piece celebrates the pioneering legacy of Gerald Genta – the late watchmaker responsible for designing Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak – of incorporating Disney characters into high-end watchmaking.
Disney, incidentally, celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2023.
Crafted in La Fabrique du Temps under the supervision of Mr Enrico Barbasini and Mr Michel Navas, it has a distinctive dial with a retrograde minute indicator and jumping hours window, showcasing a playful Mickey Mouse design.
It houses the GG-001 movement, which boasts a 3Hz frequency and an 80-hour power reserve.
Price: Upon request
